Why is retinol being banned in Europe?

If you’re a skincare buff, you must already be familiar with retinol and its age-defying superpowers. However, the European Union is now tightening restrictions on retinol, banning the use of it above certain concentrations.

Ahead, discover what this new regulation means for your skincare routine and how emerging retinol alternatives can offer similar transformative results with fewer risks.

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is celebrated for its ability to promote cell turnover, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and improve skin texture and tone.

It belongs to the broader family of retinoids, which are known for their transformative effects on the skin. Retinol stands out for its ability to penetrate deep into the skin and boost cell turnover, which makes it a go-to ingredient for addressing a variety of skin concerns, from visible signs of aging to acne.

However, despite its many benefits, retinol isn’t without its challenges. Because it accelerates skin renewal, it can also cause irritation, dryness and peeling, particularly for first-time users or those with sensitive skin.

Retinol can also make the skin more sensitive to the sun, which is why it's generally recommended for nighttime use, followed by a high-SPF sunscreen during the day. 

Retinol works by increasing the turnover rate of skin cells, helping the skin shed old cells and reveal fresh, new ones. This process smooths out rough patches and gives the skin a more radiant, even-toned appearance.

It also stimulates collagen production, which in turn helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while improving skin elasticity. This makes it a popular choice for those looking to combat signs of aging, as it firms and plumps the skin over time.

In addition to its anti-aging benefits, retinol is also used to fight acne. By unclogging pores and reducing oil production, it helps to minimise breakouts and reduce existing blemishes for a clearer complexion.

Its remarkable ability to address a wide range of skin concerns makes retinol one of the most versatile ingredients in the world of skincare, offering transformative results for virtually every skin type. However, it does have its drawbacks, hence the new EU restrictions.

Under legislation that took effect in the European Union at the end of 2023, new restrictions have been placed on the concentration of retinol in skincare products, such as retinol serums and moisturizers.

The new regulation caps retinol at 0.3% in facial and hand products, while body lotions are limited to 0.05%.

Despite the lower concentration, 0.3% retinol is still potent enough to deliver noticeable improvements in skin texture, tone and firmness. However, it may take longer to see the same results that higher concentrations could deliver more quickly.

While some might find the new change annoying, this shift means that consumers will likely experience fewer undesirable effects, making retinol more accessible and tolerable for a broader range of skin types.

The new restrictions don’t mean that your favorite retinol products will disappear immediately, as brands have until 2026 to comply with the new regulations. However, some products may be discontinued.

While higher levels of retinol are effective, its potency can lead to adverse reactions such as skin irritation and damage if used improperly. However, the new restrictions limiting retinol concentrations in skincare products is primarily aimed at reducing the risk of overexposure to vitamin A.

In its report, the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) considered scenarios where individuals might have high vitamin A intake from their diet, skincare, supplements and medicines. Although the contribution of vitamin A from cosmetics is lower compared to food, it still adds to the overall consumer exposure.

Vitamin A

Vitamin A is naturally found in dairy and fish, so using high concentrations of retinol in skincare products can risk exceeding the recommended upper limit. Excessive vitamin A intake can increase the risk of liver damage and fractures later in life, and high doses during pregnancy can lead to birth defects.

To mitigate the risk of overexposure, blanket restrictions were put in place as a precautionary measure.

If you’re an avid retinol user, don’t worry—even 0.3% retinol will make a difference, so you’ll still get that smoother, brighter, firmer skin that this ingredient promises. Even at lower concentrations, retinol remains effective while also reducing the risk of potential irritation, redness or dryness that often accompanies higher doses of retinol.

But the changes don’t stop there. With increased awareness around retinol, newer alternatives are on the rise, offering the same anti-aging benefits without the potential drawbacks.

Retinal, also known as retinaldehyde, is one such alternative that’s comparable to traditional retinol in terms of its effects.

Moreover, natural retinol alternatives are emerging, offering you similar results with gentler, plant-based options. They mimic retinol’s skin-smoothing and youth-boosting effects, but they’re much more forgiving for sensitive skin.

Whether you choose to stick with retinol, try retinal or explore natural alternatives, there are plenty of options to keep your skincare routine just as effective.

Retinal, also known as retinaldehyde, is a direct derivative of vitamin A, sitting in the same family as retinol. Both are converted into retinoic acid—the bioavailable form your skin actually uses.

Like retinol, retinal is used in skincare to support cell turnover and collagen production, making it a go-to for refining texture, evening tone, and addressing fine lines. It’s recommended in the same cases as retinol and functions similarly in formulations.

Unlike traditional retinol, retinal isn’t currently subject to the same regulatory restrictions, meaning it remains an accessible option in cosmetic formulations. As with any vitamin A derivative, a gradual introduction into your routine is always a good move.

No, retinal (retinaldehyde) is not banned in Europe. The recent EU regulations focus on limiting retinol concentrations, but retinal remains available for use in skincare products. While it is another derivative of vitamin A, retinal is perfectly legal in the EU and continues to be widely used in anti-aging and acne skincare formulations. 

As the EU’s new regulations tighten around the use of retinol in skincare, this shift has sparked growing interest in retinol alternatives that provide the same powerful benefits without the risks.

Cosmetic scientists are now exploring a range of innovative approaches to replicate the anti-aging results of retinol, without the potential side effects like irritation or redness. These alternatives offer a promising future for those looking to maintain a youthful glow, but with a gentler touch.

Among the most promising natural retinol alternatives are Bakuchiol and Bidens Pilosa extract  — two plant-based ingredients that deliver similar skin benefits without containing any vitamin A. Both of these alternatives are known for their ability to mimic the effects of retinol, but with far fewer drawbacks, making them perfect for individuals with sensitive skin or those looking for more natural solutions. 

Bidens Pilosa Extract

This plant-derived ingredient is currently gaining popularity as a natural alternative to retinol. What sets Bidens Pilosa apart is its ability to activate retinoid receptors in the skin, much like traditional retinol. This activation helps to stimulate cell turnover, promoting fresher, more youthful skin while encouraging collagen production.

The result? Firmer, smoother skin, reduced fine lines and an overall improved complexion—all without the irritation, peeling or dryness that can accompany retinol use. It also has the added bonus of not photosensitizing, meaning it can be used both day and night without increasing sun sensitivity, unlike retinol.

Bidens Pilosa’s gentle yet effective action makes it ideal for those with reactive skin or anyone looking to avoid the harsher side effects of retinoids.

Bakuchiol

Another widely acclaimed alternative, Bakuchiol comes from the seeds of the Babchi plant and has garnered significant attention in recent years for its retinol-like abilities.

It offers many of the same benefits as retinol, including smoother skin texture, reduced fine lines and wrinkles, and improved skin tone. What makes it particularly appealing is its non-irritating nature. Bakuchiol has been shown to be less harsh on the skin, making it an excellent choice for those with sensitive skin or for anyone looking to avoid the typical redness and flaking associated with retinol.

At MÁDARA, we are dedicated to harnessing nature’s gifts to deliver transformative results, and our Retinol Alternative collection is a perfect example of this commitment.

The innovative formulas combine Bidens Pilosa, a natural retinol alternative, with multi-molecular hyaluronic acid and antioxidant-rich Northern birch water. The result? Age-defying benefits comparable to traditional retinol.

Developed in collaboration with leading dermatologists, our Retinol Alternative collection:

• Targets fine lines and wrinkles
• Improves uneven texture and tone
• Supports collagen
• Leaves a more radiant complexion